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Hablur

Hablur, 01

A clear glass perfume bottle of pale gold perfume on a block of white plaster in late afternoon light

Hablur

Perfume poured by hand in a George Town shophouse. Four perfumes, each one the smell of a Malaysian hour.

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The house

We bottle the smell of a Malaysian hour, not a fantasy.

Hablur is three people in a shophouse in George Town, Penang. Since 2019 we have made perfume from what grows around us: pandan from the next garden, nutmeg from the hill, agarwood from a licensed farm in Pahang. Each perfume starts with a time of day you would recognise.

41
materials, 29 of them grown or made in Malaysia.
6 weeks
every batch rests before it is filtered and bottled.
300
bottles a batch, filled and signed by hand.
A clear glass perfume bottle of pale green gold perfume on wet grey stone, pandan leaves behind it

01of 045 pm

Pukul Lima

the first rain on a hot road

Five o'clock in March. The sky turns, the first big drops hit a road that has been baking since noon, and the whole street smells green for ten minutes. We made those ten minutes last a day.

Family
Green and earthy
Wear
6 to 8 hours on skin
Colour
Pale green gold
Eau de parfum
50 ml, RM 260

Pukul Lima, the notes

Green first, then the ground.

The calamansi is bright for the first quarter of an hour. Pandan carries the middle, soft and a little sweet. Vetiver and our wet laterite accord stay on the skin until night.

  1. Topthe first 15 minutes

    • Calamansia smallholding in Pagoh, Johor
  2. Heartfrom 20 minutes to 3 hours

    • Pandan leafour neighbour's garden, Balik Pulau
  3. Basefrom 3 hours until night

    • Vetiverroots from a farm in Kuala Nerang, Kedah
    • Wet lateriteour own accord, the red earth of a roadside drain
Pandan leaves, dry vetiver roots and halved calamansi limes on wet stone, seen from above
Pandan, vetiver root and calamansi, the morning they came in.
A clear glass perfume bottle of pale straw coloured perfume on a white enamel plate beside fresh champaca flowers

02of 047 am

Cempaka Pagi

a temple courtyard before the crowd

Seven in the morning in Air Itam. Fresh cempaka strung for the offerings, a pot of white tea on the step, the air still cool. Soft, clean and close to the skin, the one people ask about at work.

Family
Floral and airy
Wear
5 to 7 hours on skin
Colour
Pale straw
Eau de parfum
50 ml, RM 260

Cempaka Pagi, the notes

Picked at six, in the jar by nine.

Champaca loses its smell within hours, so we tincture the flowers the morning they are picked. White tea keeps the opening cool, jasmine sambac rounds the heart, and a quiet musk holds it close.

  1. Topthe first 15 minutes

    • White teafirst flush leaves from the Cameron Highlands
  2. Heartfrom 20 minutes to 3 hours

    • Champacaflowers from a grower in Air Itam, picked at dawn
    • Jasmine sambacmelur from Kuala Kangsar, Perak
  3. Basefrom 3 hours until night

    • White muska clean, skin-like musk, made in the lab
Fresh champaca and jasmine flowers on white paper beside a small heap of dry white tea leaves
Champaca, jasmine sambac and white tea on the bench at 7.40 am.
A clear glass perfume bottle of copper coloured perfume on pale timber beside a split nutmeg fruit with red mace

03of 043 pm

Pala

a Balik Pulau orchard when the fruit splits

Three in the afternoon on the hill above Balik Pulau. The nutmeg fruit splits on the tree and the red mace shows through. Warm spice, a flash of peel, a smooth wood underneath it all.

Family
Warm and spiced
Wear
8 to 10 hours on skin
Colour
Copper
Eau de parfum
50 ml, RM 280

Pala, the notes

The spice the island was built on.

Fresh mace smells nothing like the jar in your kitchen: it is bright, almost citrus. We use both the seed and the mace from one orchard, with dried peel on top and sandalwood to keep it smooth.

  1. Topthe first 15 minutes

    • Orange peelsun dried peel from a farm in Tambunan, Sabah
  2. Heartfrom 20 minutes to 3 hours

    • NutmegBalik Pulau, a third generation orchard
    • Macethe same trees, the red lace around the seed
    • Clovea single tree on the same hill
  3. Basefrom 3 hours until night

    • Sandalwoodplantation grown, from a certified supplier
Whole and split nutmeg fruits with red mace, cloves, dried orange peel and a block of sandalwood on timber
Nutmeg and mace from Balik Pulau, with peel, clove and sandalwood.
A clear glass perfume bottle of deep amber perfume on dark slate beside agarwood chips and lumps of benzoin resin

04of 0411 pm

Gaharu Malam

after the last prayer of the night

Eleven at night. Agarwood burning slowly in a brass burner, tea gone smoky in the pot, a leather prayer mat rolled away. Deep and slow, but it does not fill the lift on the way to work.

Family
Woody and resinous
Wear
10 to 12 hours on skin
Colour
Deep amber
Eau de parfum
50 ml, RM 320

Gaharu Malam, the notes

Oud you can wear on a Tuesday.

Most oud is loud. We use plantation agarwood, cut with smoked tea so it opens dry instead of sweet, and let benzoin do the warm work under it. It lasts all day and sits close.

  1. Topthe first 15 minutes

    • Smoked black teaCameron Highlands leaves, smoked over rambutan wood
  2. Heartfrom 20 minutes to 3 hours

    • Agarwooda licensed plantation in Pahang, 12 year trees
  3. Basefrom 3 hours until night

    • Benzoinkemenyan resin from North Sumatra
    • Leathera soft suede accord, no animal material
Dark resinous agarwood chips, lumps of benzoin resin and smoked tea leaves on slate
Plantation agarwood, kemenyan and smoked tea, weighed for batch 14.

How it is made

Eight weeks from the scale to your shelf.

  1. Hands weighing drops of oil from a small brown bottle into a glass beaker on a white lab scale

    Weigh

    Day 1

    Every formula is weighed to a hundredth of a gram. Pukul Lima has 23 materials, Gaharu Malam has 31.

  2. Rows of large glass jars of perfume in shades of gold and amber on an old timber shelf

    Rest

    Weeks 1 to 6

    The blend rests in sealed glass jars in the back room, away from light, until it smells like one thing instead of many.

  3. Chill and filter

    Week 7

    Two days at 4 degrees, then filtered through paper twice. That is why it stays clear on your shelf.

  4. Hands filling a clear perfume bottle with pale gold perfume through a small glass funnel

    Fill

    Week 8

    One bottle at a time, by hand, capped and signed on the box. 300 bottles a batch, then we start again.

Collection

Start small, then choose.

Perfume changes on skin, so we would rather you try it for a week first. Shipping is free above RM 200, to anywhere in Malaysia.

A discovery set from above: four small glass vials of perfume in four colours in a white card tray
  • Discovery set

    RM 68

    All four perfumes in 5 ml vials. The RM 68 comes off your first 50 ml.

    Order the set
  • Eau de parfum, 50 ml

    from RM 260

    Any of the four. Wrapped, signed and shipped in 2 to 4 working days.

    Choose a perfume
  • Eau de parfum, 100 ml

    from RM 390

    The same perfume in our larger bottle, for the one you already know you love.

    Choose a perfume
  • Refill, 100 ml

    RM 290

    Bring back any Hablur bottle and we fill it again at the shophouse.

    Book a refill
  • Blending afternoon

    RM 180

    Saturdays, 2.5 hours, 6 people. You leave with 30 ml of your own blend and its formula.

    Book a seat
  • A scent for your space

    from RM 4,800

    A room scent for a hotel, cafe or shop, with diffuser oil and a matching hand wash. 8 weeks.

    Ask about it

Kind words

What people say

  • I wore Pukul Lima to a wedding in Ipoh and three people asked what it was. It smells like the car park after the rain, which sounds bad and is not.

    N. A. Ipoh

  • Gaharu Malam is the first oud I can wear to the office. Deep, but it does not fill the lift.

    H. R. Petaling Jaya

  • They made a room scent for our 14-room hotel. Guests now ask to buy it at checkout, so we sell it at the front desk.

    S. L. a heritage hotel, George Town

Initials only, shared with permission. 4.9 out of 5 from 612 orders since 2022.

Visit

Smell it on paper, then on skin.

The shophouse is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11 am to 7 pm. Walk in, or book a quiet half hour and we will take you through all four.

Where
A shophouse in George Town, Penang. Directions come with your booking.
Inside a restored shophouse perfume atelier with a terrazzo counter, bottles in a row and timber shutters

Index

  1. Hablur
  2. The house
  3. Pukul Lima
    The notes
  4. Cempaka Pagi
    The notes
  5. Pala
    The notes
  6. Gaharu Malam
    The notes
  7. How it is made
  8. Collection
  9. Kind words
  10. Visit

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